Stars, Storms & Samburu Stories
By Jenna – Southern Cross Safaris
There’s nowhere quite like Samburu. It’s wild, vast, and deeply soulful—the kind of place that leaves you dusty, awestruck, and just a little bit changed. I recently returned from a trip that took me from the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River all the way to the rugged rocks of Kalama Conservancy, and I’m still carrying it with me.
This is a story about crocodiles and storms, rainbows and reticulated giraffes. But more than that, it’s about the power of nature and the deep, still magic of Northern Kenya.
Under the Doum Palms
We started off in Samburu, camped beneath towering doum palms right on the edge of the Ewaso Nyiro River. It felt impossibly wild. As I sat on the verandah of my tent, a huge crocodile floated past just metres away—completely unbothered, as if to remind me whose river this really was.
That evening, I dined by the water’s edge with a troop of baboon spectators eyeing me from the trees across the river. Samburu doesn’t just offer wildlife encounters, it immerses you in them.
Giraffes and Rainbows
On our evening game drive, we headed up into the hills. The sky was building, clouds beginning to swirl. And then, one of those moments that stays with you forever: a tower of reticulated giraffes, perfectly silhouetted against a rainbow stretching across the horizon.
We were the only vehicle in sight. Just us, the giraffes, and the wide-open silence. This is the joy of Samburu—space, solitude, and raw, unfiltered beauty.
Ostriches, Crocodiles & Epic Landscapes
At dawn, we set out again, this time into the park's deeper corners. A troop of Somali ostriches caught our eye, some standing tall and others lying down. My guide smiled and said, “They must be siblings—still together, not yet separated.”
The landscape rolled on, with open plains melting into distant mountains and doum palms breaking up the desert tones. We crossed a shallow river, where another crocodile lay motionless in wait. As we approached, it disappeared beneath the surface without a ripple, a silent ghost in the water.
Storms & Stillness
That night, we arrived at a new lodge perched high above the river, with sweeping panoramic views of Samburu. At 2:00 AM, the sky unleashed itself—the rain pounded down, relentless and wild. From my tent, I could hear the Ewaso Nyiro swelling, roaring louder with each passing hour.
By morning, the river had quadrupled in size. What had been a peaceful ribbon of water had become a force of nature. It was humbling, beautiful, and a reminder of how alive this landscape really is.
Northbound to Kalama
After breakfast and several strong coffees, we left Samburu and began our journey further north. As we passed through the town of Isiolo, the clouds began to clear and the majestic shape of Mount Ololokwe rose in the distance.
“Mount Ololokwe is not just a mountain; it's a sacred site deeply rooted in Samburu culture and spirituality. ” Peter told me as we stopped to take it all in. “It's a place where the Samburu conduct important ceremonies, including those marking the transition from adolescence to adulthood, ritual cattle slaughters, and rain prayers.”
Into the Wilderness: Kalama Conservancy
Driving into Kalama Conservancy feels like slipping through a portal. The roads turn to red sand, the bush thickens, and massive rock outcrops rise around you like ancient monuments. Every so often, a dikdik darts away, startled by the sound of the engine.
Our lodge sat atop a huge granite outcrop, with views that went on forever. Little klipspringers bounced along the rocks below, and one of the Samburu staff casually mentioned that a resident leopard, named Ugali, likes to prowl these cliffs at night.
A Warrior’s Trail
That afternoon, we set off on foot with a Samburu guide and Kalama warden, hiking across the rocky landscape. We visited a cave once used by Samburu boys sent off to herd goats as they prepared to become warriors—simple, powerful history, woven into the land.
As we followed our guide’s brightly coloured robes down the hillside, baboons chattered in the trees above, and the light began to soften. Eventually, we reached a vast rock ledge overlooking the conservancy. And there, waiting, was Eric, another Samburu guide—with a gin and tonic in hand.
Below us, a herd of elephants moved slowly through the bush, with giraffes further on. The sunset melted across the horizon, casting everything in gold and firelight.
Stargazing & Stories
As the light faded, the world quieted. One of the guides pointed up at the night sky and began to tell stories. We found the Southern Cross, and he explained how the stars guide their calendar, their ceremonies, and the passing of time.
In that moment, on that rock, with the Milky Way spilling across the sky, I felt completely still and completely alive. These are the moments that make a safari so special. And in Kalama, they come quietly, without effort—if you let them.
Final Thoughts
This trip reminded me of why I love Northern Kenya so much. It’s not just about the wildlife, though it’s incredible. It’s about space, stillness, storms, and stars. It’s about culture, connection, and perspective. It’s the kind of travel that re-centers you, the kind you feel in your bones.
If you’re looking for something truly special, something a little wild, and with plenty of soul- go north.
Where to Stay
Basecamp Samburu Camp
Price Point - Mid-High Range $$$
With incredible views of Mount Ololokwe, this small, intimate camp is thoughtfully designed to provide an authentic, wild Samburu experience—and the open-air star beds let you fall asleep beneath the vast African sky, making you feel even more connected to nature and the rhythm of the wild.
Click on the photo to see the Basecamp Lookbook.
Surana Buffalo Springs Lodge
Price Point - Mid-High Range $$$
Surana Buffalo Springs is a contemporary lodge that combines modern comfort with a sense of fun. Each suite features its own private plunge pool—perfect for cooling off in the Samburu heat—and offers sweeping views across the reserve, immersing you in the wild beauty of the landscape.
Click on the photo to see the Surana Lookbook.
Saruni Samburu Lodge
Price Point - Luxury Range $$$$
Saruni Samburu is all about sweeping panoramic views, romance, and unforgettable experiences—with beautifully designed villas perched high above the Kalama Conservancy and a fantastic range of activities that connect you deeply with the land and Samburu culture.
Click on the photo to see the Saruni Lookbook.
Soroi Larsens Camp
Price Point - Luxury Range $$$$
Larsens Camp offers an authentic safari experience, with tents nestled under doum palms along the Ewaso Nyiro River. Unfenced and truly wild, the camp welcomes visiting wildlife, while features like a star bed, photographic hide, and excellent cuisine make it both immersive and indulgent.
Click on the photo to see the Larsen’s Lookbook.
Ashnil Samburu Camp
Price Point - Budget-Mid Range $$$
Set along the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River, Ashnil Samburu Camp offers affordable, comfortable tented accommodation with a warm, relaxed atmosphere—perfect for travellers looking to experience Samburu without compromising on location.
Click on the photo to see the Ashnil Lookbook.
Soroi Samburu Lodge - Opening July 2025
Price Point - Mid Range $$$
Soroi Samburu is a brand-new lodge featuring contemporary riverside cottages along the Ewaso Nyiro River. With stylish shared spaces, a swimming pool, and all the modern safari comforts, it offers a fresh and inviting base for exploring the wild beauty of Samburu.
Click on the photo to see the Soroi Lookbook.